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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.